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The Village
THE ARTS OF CLOTH KALAMKARI

     
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Kalamkari refers to dye-painted cloths and the technique used to create them. They are traditionally made in small towns along the southeast coast of India, in the state of Andhra Pradesh. Their name derives from kalam, the Persian word for a pen-like tool used to draw outlines on the cloth, and kari (work). The process involves washing, rinsing, soaking and bleaching muslin, and applying mordants and dyes using natural substances like indigo (blue), madder (red), mango bark (yellow) and palm sugar (black).

The distinctive temple hangings, chariot decorations and canopies of Srikalahasti typically feature Hindu stories, and the images are often identified with text in Telegu, the regional language.

The work done in Machilipatnam, often using block printing in conjunction with hand painting, features more decorative floral and vegetal designs that appealed to local kingdoms and to an extraordinary export trade. This culminated in European demand for Machilipatnam chintz, which derives its name from the Hindi word chint (spotted).